This precious stone is a good candidate for the title of the most underrated gem in history. Its crystals have become known as Balas rubies, being among the treasures of kings and emperors, often passing from hand to hand as spoils of war. Modern technology has helped to dispel confusion about their identity.
The so-called ‘Black Prince's Ruby’ is one of the most famous examples. An octagonal gem, it was probably mined in the mountains of Afghanistan. It first appeared in historical records of 14th-century Spain and was owned by Muslim and Spanish kings before Edward, Prince of Wales - the ‘Black Prince’ - received the carmine red stone in 1367 as payment for his victory in battle. The gem survived his era. It has survived fires, attempted theft, and the bombing raids of the Second World War, becoming, alongside the Koh-i-Noor diamond, one of the focal points of England's crown jewels.
However, in 1789, mineralogist Jean Baptiste Louis Rome de Lisle identified the stone as a new mineral rather than a ruby. Spinel is an oxide of magnesium and aluminum, occurring in many colours. Like diamonds, spinel crystals can form perfect octahedrons, which are octahedrons consisting of two connected pyramids. Its name comes from the Latin word spinella, referring to its conical crystals.
The history of the spinel inspired a unique design. An ‘understated gem’ is set in the centre. Its blood-red colour contrasts with the turquoise forged on the sides of the ring and under the main setting, which forks and flows seamlessly into the ring. The ring has been crafted in 14k white gold.
