Marcel Tolkowsky was a member of a Jewish family who came from Poland. As part of his Ph.D. thesis at the University of London, he developed mathematical calculations to analyse diamond cuts. While conducting his research, he discovered that if a diamond was cut too deep or too shallow, reflected light would escape from the sides or the bottom of the diamond. It was thought to result in a loss of brilliance (the white light reflected by the diamond's surface) and fire (the rainbow of colours reflected from within the diamond). The combination of these two factors accounts for the brilliance of the stone.
In 1919, Tolkowsky developed the modern diamond cut. The original model was to be a set of general guidelines, and several aspects of the diamond cut were neither considered nor explored. Later, modifications of round brilliant diamonds varied only slightly. The current round brilliant cut consists of 58 or 57 facets. Facets are planes that reflect and scatter light, giving the diamond brilliance and fire. With this precise cut, light passes through the stone and is reflected back to the surface, creating a spectacular effect.
The ring below was designed according to a pattern from the Marcel Tolkowski era. In the centre of the composition, a stone of excellent brilliance and superb clarity has been set in the engagement crown. The ring is complemented by openwork patterns alluding to leaves, interlaced with decorative lace. The whole piece was made in white gold.
